PHILOCOFFEA 455 Bolivia Dario Caisina Quino Caturra/Catuai

One of Bolivia's most well-known coffee-producing regions is Caranavi, located at the entrance to the Amazon rainforest. Philocoffea imports Mr. Rodriguez's coffee every year, and popular farms such as Alasitas are located in this area. The climate here is hot and extremely humid, making it look more like a tropical rainforest than farmland. However, its unique high altitude and varied microclimates have nurtured coffees with diverse characteristics. Yet, Bolivia's coffee industry has not always had smooth sailing. Affected by changes in government policy and pests and diseases, coffee production has decreased by approximately 80% over the past decade. Current export volume is only about 1,200 tons, making it one of the rarest coffee-producing countries in the global coffee market.

The Rodriguez family has supported the Bolivian coffee industry for many years. For over 30 years, they have operated the Buena Vista Wet Mill in Caranavi, processing coffee cherries grown by local farmers. However, witnessing the significant decline in domestic coffee production, they realized that "at this rate, Bolivian coffee could disappear," so they decided to personally devote themselves to coffee farming. Today, they have eight different plots in Caranavi, where they have introduced modern farm management at altitudes of 1,400 to 1,650 meters to produce high-quality coffee.

Furthermore, their goal is not limited to producing good coffee themselves. They hope to share their long-accumulated knowledge of cultivation and processing with local farmers, revitalizing the Bolivian coffee industry itself. With this belief, the "Sol de la Manana" project was born (meaning "Morning Sun" in Spanish).

The project officially launched in 2013. It initially began with about 10 farmers from a small farming village in the mountains near the town of Caranavi. From nursery establishment methods and farm management to fertilization methods and timing, pruning, and post-harvest coffee cherry sorting, the project has developed a systematic curriculum, serving as a "school for farmers" so they can systematically learn the basics of coffee cultivation. Before the project started, the average yield per hectare was only about 2.5 bags. Since then, by putting the learned techniques into practice, yields have improved significantly. Pedro Rodriguez and others still visit the participating farmers regularly to provide ongoing technical support and advice. These efforts have been highly acclaimed and won the Sustainability Award from the SCA (Specialty Coffee Association) in 2019.

Not only producing delicious coffee themselves, but also sharing the knowledge they acquired over many years with neighboring farmers. Then, allowing farmers to maintain their livelihoods through continuous coffee cultivation, thereby ensuring the future of the Bolivian coffee industry. Mr. Dario, the producer of this coffee, was one of the farmers who participated in Sol de la Manana from the project's early stages.

Mr. Dario joined the project around 2014. At that time, the coffee leaf rust epidemic in Bolivia was extremely severe, and many small-scale farmers even planned to give up coffee cultivation and switch to growing coca leaves instead. In such a dire situation, Mr. Dario, as one of over 100 pioneering farmers, learned cultivation techniques at the Producer School operated by the Rodriguez family. Results gradually became apparent, and he became one of the first farmers to increase the yield per hectare from 5 to 10 bags to over 20 bags. He is also said to be able to consistently produce specialty-grade coffee with a score of over 85 points.

In Mr. Dario's coffee-making process, Slow Drying is particularly important. Instead of using conventional methods to dry the coffee quickly under intense direct sunlight, he covers raised beds with shade netting and dries the coffee slowly in the shaded environment. Furthermore, he carefully manages the airflow through the drying racks, allowing moisture to be gradually released in a controlled manner. It is said that this meticulous drying process creates a smooth texture and rich flavor that can still be felt after the coffee cools. At the same time, in high-altitude environments with drastic humidity fluctuations, slow drying can mitigate environmental impacts, protect the endosperm inside the seeds, and thus improve the shelf life of the coffee.

This coffee was processed using the washed method, but anaerobic fermentation was also incorporated into the process. After removing the pulp from the harvested cherries, they undergo 24 hours of anaerobic fermentation, followed by slow drying to complete the processing. From the Rodriguez family, who took action out of a desire to save the Bolivian coffee industry, to Sol de la Manana, which was born to share knowledge with the community, and then to Mr. Dario, who learned here and improved the quality and yield. Behind a single cup of coffee lies a story of knowledge and skills passed down through generations over many years.

Next is the story of Philocoffea. Observing the green bean, the moisture content was a relatively high 11%, but the density was not extremely hard. Initially, because we "did not want to roast it too dark," we used a gentler heat during the early stage of roasting. However, during tasting, we found that the mouthfeel left a slightly gritty sensation. We then thought, "Since the green beans themselves contain sufficient moisture, why not make good use of it?" and applied enough heat from the early stage. Although this time the reaction progressed, the acidity felt a bit dull and heavy. Finally, we found the balance between the two. We roasted with gentler heat in the early stage, then significantly increased the heat from the middle stage onward, using the moisture inside the beans to drive the reaction. The roast level was set to light-medium. Even with the same green beans, simply changing the heat application method can result in completely different textures and acidity. The process of finding the best flavor profile for this coffee is precisely where the joy of roasting lies.

Just before writing this, Sato, who is responsible for the extraction parameters at the shop, told me, "This Bolivian coffee is so delicious! The texture is amazing!", which made me feel incredibly happy. This is precisely the part I paid special attention to during this roast, so hearing this compliment naturally made me exceptionally delighted. When I tasted it myself again, I felt a soft citrus fruitiness and a gentle sweetness reminiscent of honey and walnuts. Neither light nor heavy, the smooth texture that flowed comfortably in the mouth naturally made me want another sip. Compared to when it was freshly roasted, as the beans aged, the citrus acidity and sweetness became clearer and more distinct, while the unique herbal aroma of Bolivia was beautifully enveloped in that sweetness and comfort.

This may not be a flashy coffee. However, it has a soft fruitiness and sweetness, along with a smooth and comfortable texture, making you want to taste it again the next day without even realizing it. It possesses the kind of goodness that naturally blends into everyday life.

When you learn about the efforts behind Sol de la Manana, you will think further about the meaning of bringing delicious coffee to everyone beyond just delivering it. What we can do is not merely introduce it once and be done, but continue to purchase the coffee we believe is delicious and keep presenting it to you. If we can use this to support farmers like Mr. Dario in continuing to grow coffee, and do our part for the future of the Bolivian coffee industry that the Rodriguez family has worked so hard for, we will feel incredibly gratified. Let the deliciousness you want to taste every day connect to the future of the farmers every day. We hope this coffee can serve as such a goodness, blending into your daily life.